CiviK | Vol. IV

Getting the K20 lump situated into an EK/EJ Civic can be done a multitude of ways. Over the years, tuners and hobbyists alike have developed methods for FWD, RWD, or 4WD configurations. So however you like your K-Swap, highly likely someone has ‘been there, done that’.

As for me, the original FF configuration made most sense, practically. Off-the-shelf components and kits produced by Hasport, Hybrid Racing, K-Tuned, Innovative Mounts etc, are tried and tested, so yeah I went the “easy” route.

As you may or may not know, EK subframes force you to mount K-series engines toward the front of the car, which is troublesome for bonnet and radiator clearance. Luckily, Honda parts are interchangable, meaning that using an EG Civic (5th gen) or DC Integra (3rd gen) front subframe with the two-piece lower suspension arms and forks allows for rearward engine mounting, with still plenty of room for the exhaust manifold and other ancillaries that are mounted on/adjacent to the firewall.

To be honest, I’ll admit I went over the top taking photos of the subframe and steering rack. I’ll post them anyway, might help you, might not, whatever.

By the way, those last couple images up there, that’s the bracket that retains the passenger-side of the steering rack. A rubber bushing is supposed to have come with it, but I had to go back to the seller and retrieve that.

Power steering was a must, so I chose to go with the DC2 Integra Type R rack. According to forumbois, DC2R steering ratio is quicker than the EK9’s rack. It’s also a lot more common of a part to find in the UK. To identify a DC2 Type R steering rack – or any DC2R-specific part – look for part number label or casting marks that read ‘ST7’.

Aaaaand off the bits went to be shotblasted and then powdercoated in satin black for that OEM-fresh quality. Plot twist: the powdercoaters chose to go full gloss and fucked what I said. Main thing is, the parts weren’t leaving crumbs of rust everytime I handle them.

Again, no pics were taken of anything once I got them back. Maybe I was too pissed off with the powdercoaters cocking up, that I didn’t bother. Don’t worry, you’ll catch a glimpse of them fitted to the car soon enough.

In other news, here’s something that I DID want in gloss black.

The brother eventually got around to painting my vintage Snap-On top chest. It wasn’t in bad condition for its age, but I got it for a good price so I thought I may aswell give it a refresh. It’s that old, when cleaning/prepping prior to paint, I found a letter from British Gas dated during the 1940s/50s, typewritten and the lot!

Seen as though I had no car to put the engine and gearbox into for 3 months, Me and Hamza got to work on engine removal.

To be continued…

CIVIK | Vol. II

Let’s pick up from last time shall we. Engine and gearbox acquired. Dunno if I mentioned last time, but the ‘box I picked up was from a DC5 Type R (Y2M3) meaning that it has higher ratio/shorter 4th, 5th, and 6th gears.

This link is a handy reference to keep bookmarked: (https://www.hybrid-racing.com/blogs/hybrid-racing/k-series-transmission-guide)

I decided not to bust the engine open, and I was definitely not gonna play around with the gearbox, purely because I never have done so before and I’d rather not risk undoing something I shouldn’t.

Also, I felt there was no real need. I bought them both from seemingly reputable sellers, so I took their word for it and just did basic odds and sods.

The image above looks to be that there is something missing when in fact its a blind hole. I assume it is left in the casting for a hole to be drilled for a different K-series application.

Hamza got the privilege of rubba-dubbin’ the gearbox casing which was grimey as they come. Meanwhile, I went over the engine with WD40, using wire brushes or steel wool for the stubborn shite.

I thought I may aswell check this VTEC device out, technically known as the “VTEC Spool Valve Solenoid”. Three 10mm bolts and off it came. Its rubber gasket and mesh was hard and brittle, so there was no way I’d be reusing. The gasket was all in bits, and the mesh filter built into the gasket had done enough duty. OEM part purchased and fitted.

Don’t be me and rip half of the camshaft angle sensor plastic body off when lifting the engine using – as you can see – proper professional expert lifting tackle.

You’re gonna wanna know how fast the engine is spinning, especially up top. B-series gauge cluster for that extra increment on the tacho.

They don’t make ’em like this anymore. Nowadays your car’s vitals’ are displayed on a screen with seven-billion menus. I’d just like the vital vitals, please and thanks.

I’ve never seen the streets get snow plowed around where I live. These should replace the grit lorries, then all our Jap motors won’t flake away as quick as they do on British roads.

Gas heater blower cannon did alright keeping us warm, but once it was off, the not-insulated-at-all garage let all the heat out, and the cold in. Flippin’ noisy too.

OEM throttle body gave me a bit of grief. The two torx bolts holding the TPS sensor in were corroded to the max. I ended up having to drill and extract one of the bolts out, but the other one snapped its head clean off. I had to send it off for spark eroding.

Brand new OEM gaskets for both the TPS and the throttle-to-inlet bought, because I didn’t fancy any vacuum leaks.

Might be worth adding, I also removed the “intake air control valve” (a.k.a. IACV) and gave it a proper spraying with PlusGas to lubricate and release any debris, so that the valve would rotate and not become stuck. Then I hit it with a load of WD40. I’ve heard these valves (attached to throttle body) are troublesome, so I did the precautionary thing.

Cleaned the input shaft of the gearbox with steel wool, as well as the release/throw-out bearing. When spun, the bearing didn’t sound too bad, so I applied a load of lithium grease between the inner race and the O.D. of the shaft, for supreme slipperiness.

Gearbox is cleaner than it was before (damn me for not taking a pic of it in its previous condition). Those specks dotted all over the aluminium casing is the material’s surface oxidising, I think.

Oh yeah, at this point I moved into a larger space on Hamza’s property. The size upgrade was cool, but the fact the roof doesn’t leak (much) in this section is what matters most.

New clutch slave cylinder from Honda because I didn’t have one, and also because OEM is king. I’ve had an aftermarket one shit itself on that NB MX-5 I used to have, so lesson was learnt.

Anyway, I’ll leave it there, check in next time!